Have you ever hopped on the wall, only to get confused a few moves in? Climbing can often feel intuitive, but sometimes a tricky sequence can throw you off and burn precious forearm power. That’s where route reading comes in. By taking some time to plan before you pull on, you can climb smarter, save energy, and give yourself a better shot at sending.
In climbing competitions, you’ve probably seen athletes miming moves from the ground or even rehearsing an entire route in their heads. Route reading helps you (and the pros!) separate the mental processing from the physical effort. By studying a climb before you get off the mat, You’ll create muscle memory for key techniques, anticipate the crux (the hardest part of the climb), and feel more confident when it’s time to commit.
Ready to give route reading a try? Here are a few tips to conserve forearm power, maximize each attempt, and give yourself a better chance at flowing through your beta.
Route reading can feel overwhelming when you’re craning your neck at a 40-foot sport route. Start with boulders—they’re shorter, but usually have more challenging sequences and higher intensity movement. Before you jump on those start holds, take a minute to think about the setters’ intended beta for the climb. Spending time thinking about, visualizing, and even acting a difficult series of moves can build muscle memory off the wall.
💡Tip: Route reading isn’t just for your flash attempt. If you fall, reset on the mat and rethink your approach before hopping back on.
Your hands often dictate body position and flow, so start there! Think about which hand should take each hold, whether you’ll need to match, and how you’ll transition to the next move. Visualize yourself bumping, crossing, or reaching, and let your hands determine the direction you will be going.
💡Tip: Follow the chalk! It can reveal which holds other climbers are using and help you avoid getting duped by what looked like a crimp, but was in fact a slopey foothold.
Even the strongest climbers get pumped on long routes. Before you start, look for ledges, jugs, or creative rests like knee bars that can buy you recovery time. Climbers often power through without considering where they could efficiently take a rest! and miss these opportunities to shake out and regroup. Taking just a few moments to note what'’s coming next and plan rest spots can make the difference between falling short and clipping chains.
💡 Tip: Mental rests matter too. Hitting a planned pause lets you reset, breathe, and remember what’s coming next.
When in doubt, chunk it out! Long routes can feel overwhelming if you try to memorize every move. Instead, focus on key sections: the crux, a roof, or a style change like overhang to slab. Having a rough map of the climb keeps you moving efficiently while leaving room for adjustments.
💡 Tip: Cue words help sync your brain and body. For example: “Left smear, swing right, catch undercling.” Simple reminders can lock in complex sequences.
Don’t forget—you’re not in this alone. Talking through beta with your partner or other climbers is one of the best ways to problem-solve and pick up new skills. Apps like Kaya can even help you gather beta from the wider climbing community. Think about it like the “observation period” in comps where climbers discuss their ideas and strategies: strength is in numbers.
Route reading is a powerful tool that helps you conserve energy, sharpen your focus, and climb with more confidence. Next time you’re about to pull on, take a moment to scope the hand sequences, identify rest spots, and break the climb into manageable chunks.
If you want to level up even further, check out our classes—like Intermediate Technique or Peak Performance Team—or work directly with one our private coaches to hone your skills. Try route reading in your next session and see how much smoother your climbing feels.