So, you’re new to climbing, maybe you got really stoked and recently became a member at your local gym. You’re in the honeymoon phase of your climbing journey, and it’s a beautiful, magical time. The energy is through the roof, you’re starting to crush grades you once thought impossible, and maybe you’re even meeting some solid people who could end up being lifelong belay buddies. You’re pumped, you’re psyched, and every fiber of your being wants to be on the wall 24/7.
But here’s the thing—take a deep breath. The classic mistake? Charging in every single day like you’re training for the World Cup. Look, I’m not here to kill your vibe or tell you to tone down the excitement. Stoke is good. Great, even! But there’s a sweet spot—a balance between climbing all the time and progressing in a way that keeps you strong and injury-free.
The Magic Number: 2-3 Times a Week
If you’re just getting started, or even if you have been climbing for a while, 2-3 sessions per week is the golden range. This gives you enough time on the wall to build strength, technique, and confidence, but also enough recovery time to let your muscles (and skin!) heal. Climbing is a full-body sport, and chances are you’re waking up with aches in muscles you didn’t even know existed. Trust me, recovery is just as important as the climbing itself.
Why this range?
- Two days a week is a solid baseline, and that's often why you notice the gym busier on Tuesday or Thursday evenings. This consistent cadence will lead to improvements in technique, endurance, and movement as your body catches up with your stoke.
- Three days a week is where you’ll start seeing faster progress. You’ll be more consistent in your training, and your body will get more comfortable on the wall. But be sure to add space between sessions, such as Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays.
But climbing every day?!? That’s when things start getting dicey.
Why You Shouldn’t Go Hard Every Day
I get it. The climbing bug bites hard, and suddenly, you’re tempted to be at the gym every day. Resist the urge! Climbing is tough on your fingers, tendons, and skin, and overdoing it can lead to burnout or injury. (Trust me, finger injuries are no fun, and partly why I am writing this blog to my younger self....)
Giving your body time to rest between sessions is key. They’re where the real progress happens. Your muscles rebuild stronger, your skin has time to recover, and your mind resets, making you more psyched for your next session.
And hey, if the idea of fully resting gives you the jitters, I get it—On your “off” days, consider an active recovery session instead. Pop into a yoga or fitness class, hit the sauna, or just “work from home” in the lounge while soaking up the energy of the community.
Quality Over Quantity
It’s not just about how many times you’re climbing—it’s about how you’re climbing Focus on improving your technique with each session, rather than just going through the motions. Work on footwork, body positioning, and balance. Mix in different types of climbing, like bouldering and roped climbing, to challenge yourself in different ways with climbs that “aren’t your style”.
Progress at Your Own Pace
Climbing isn’t a race, and there’s no prize for who logs the most gym hours in a week. Some weeks, you’ll be on fire. Other weeks, life gets in the way. The most important thing? Enjoying the process and having fun with it! After all, half the joy of climbing is learning from every fall, every send, and every attempt that gets you closer to that next big breakthrough.
So get after it—but also, maybe take a rest day once in a while.
