Know the Signs: Identifying Unsafe Climbing Hardware and Supporting the ASCA

In our gyms, everything is inspected regularly—bolts, anchors, quickdraws, you name it. But out at the crags, where there isn’t a Rockstar facilities team to back you up, it’s up to the climbing community to keep each other safe. At outdoor climbing areas, on public land, there is no routine maintenance or inspection by land management agencies, and all work is done by local volunteers. This means as climbers we are responsible for the bolts and anchors we choose to use! Thankfully, with the help of the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), caring for the crags you love has never been easier.

Here’s a quick guide to help you identify potentially unsafe hardware while you’re out and about, how to report it, and why the ASCA’s work is so vital to our climbing community.

Spotting Faulty Hardware

Sometimes identifying a bad bolt is as simple as thinking, “Oh, that looks sketchy.” But other times, it takes a closer eye. Since we put so much trust into these crucial pieces of protection, it’s important to know what to look for:

1. Rust or Corrosion: Rusty bolts or hangers, especially in coastal or humid areas, can lose strength over time. If the metal looks discolored or pitted, investigate further.
2. Wobbly or Loose Bolts: Give it the ol’ flick test! A bolt that spins or shifts when touched may not be secure. Bolts should feel firmly set in the rock. Often bolts that have a spinning hanger or a loose nut just need to be tightened up, a 9/16" box-ended wrench is a great tool to keep in your cragging kit. Clip a quickdraw to the hanger and pull it straight down to see how it should be oriented on the rock and tighten it up in that position.
3. Cracked or Damaged Hangers: Check for cracks, sharp edges, or deformations. A cracked hanger is unsafe, even if the bolt looks solid.
4. Worn or Grooved Anchors: Over time, ropes create grooves in anchor hardware, weakening it. Deep or sharp grooves mean it’s time for a replacement.
5. Homemade or Sketchy Gear: If it doesn’t look professionally installed or uses non-standard materials (like hardware store bolts), it’s better not to trust it.

Rusty Anchor

Example of a loose bolt in need of rebolting

Cracked Homemade Hanger

Badly Worn Lower Off 

Home Made and Extremely Dangerous Bolt

How to Report Unsafe Hardware

If you come across hardware that’s seen better days, don’t ignore it—report it! The ASCA relies on climbers like you to flag deteriorating equipment for replacement. Here’s how:

• Document the hardware: Take photos and note the specific location.
• Report to the ASCA: Use their reporting system and include details like the route name, pitch, and description of the issue.
• Spread awareness: Let others in the area know and consider posting about it in climbing forums or groups.

The ASCA: Keeping Climbers Safe

Since 1998, the ASCA has replaced over 75,000 bolts and 40,000 anchors, ensuring climbing routes across North America remain safe. Their work is made possible by dedicated volunteers and the generosity of climbers like you.

• Where Donations Go: Each tax-deductible donation funds new, high-quality bolts and anchors, which volunteer stewards use to replace aging and dangerous gear that climbers count on to stay safe. The ASCA also provides education and tools to rebolters so work is done using established best practices
• Impact: If you’ve ever clipped a bolt stamped with “ASCA,” you’ve benefited from community support. Those bolts are the result of collective efforts to maintain our climbing spaces.
• Expanding Reach: Founded on the big walls of Yosemite in 1998, the ASCA now works nationwide and in several international destinations popular with American climbers, upgrading dangerous gear with high-quality, long-lasting bolts and anchors. In 2024 alone, more than 6600 bolts and 2000 anchor stations were upgraded to improve climber safety

The ASCA depends almost entirely on donations from individual climbers. If you’ve ever clipped one of their bolts, odds are it was there because of community support.

How You Can Help

• Donate: Even small contributions go a long way. This December, Movement is matching donations up to $10,000
• Volunteer: Getting involved with an LCO (Local Climbing Organization) is a great way to care for climbing resources, and there is something for everyone to do! LCO's work to preserve access, maintain trails and routes, foster good relationships with land managers, and provide opportunities for folks to access the outdoors that might not have had the opportunity otherwise.
• Spread the Word: Share the importance of bolt replacement with your climbing community.

Every climber has a role to play in maintaining the integrity of the hardware that keeps us safe. By staying vigilant, reporting unsafe bolts, and supporting organizations like the ASCA, we ensure that future climbers can enjoy the routes we love without unnecessary risks. Together, we can protect the climbing spaces that inspire and challenge us all.