Something I never saw myself doing was a bouldering competition, but in hindsight, I wish I had done one earlier. Let’s start at the beginning.
I’ve been bouldering for a while at Movement Centennial. I met a guy named Phil there and noticed over a few months that he was becoming a much better climber. I asked him how he did it, and he mentioned he had been climbing with a group of guys who really encouraged him to push himself.
Eventually, I met those same guys through Phil. True to his words, they definitely encourage you to get better! One day, they (Charlie & Hunter) suggested I sign up for a local bouldering comp called the Mile High Melee. The competition had already started a few weeks prior, so I reluctantly signed up. The rules were simple: I would climb specially tagged routes and log my ascents and attempts in the Kaya climbing app.
Leaderboard of One: Punching My Ticket to Finals
And then, just like that, the qualifier round was over. The two people with the highest point totals from each of the six Colorado Movement gyms would be invited to the finals. Oddly enough, I remained the only guy on my gym's leaderboard, which landed me an email invitation to the finals for the novice category! Hey, I'll take a win by default any day.
Woohoo! I was so honored just to be able to attend the finals. Still, I had no idea what to expect. I knew the category was supposed to be V0–V2, which is right within my climbing range. Even so, doubts started creeping in. Would everyone else flash all the routes while I became the “old guy” who failed? At 51 years old, I realized I would probably be the oldest person competing in my category, likely by at least 10 years.
Competition Day
The competition started at 6:00 PM. The novice category was inclusive of all genders, featuring women, men, non-binary, and non-disclosed competitors climbing together. As a group, we would have 15 minutes per boulder problem across a total of three routes, finishing up by 6:45 PM. The routes were set in advance, and the gym had restricted access to that area in the days leading up to the comp so we couldn't see or practice the routes beforehand.
I showed up early, wanting to get a quick warmup on a V0 or V1. The day itself had gone agonizingly slowly, but the moment I stepped into the gym, time seemed to fly. When the starting order was read aloud, I found out I would be climbing fourth.
The Three Routes
My first route was a V2, and I immediately fell on the first move. I assumed everyone else had flashed it, but as it turned out, everyone was falling off! A couple of climbers eventually sent it, but I never made it past the start. Time’s up!
On the second V2, I tried once and fell right off. On my second attempt, I adjusted my strategy, placing my left foot against the opposing wall for leverage. I got up to the hold that had given me trouble and executed an “alpine knee,” using my actual knee on a hold instead of a hand or foot. It worked! I reached the next hold, and the crowd went wild cheering for the alpine knee. I reached the top hold, tapped it with my other hand to match, and pumped my fist in the air. I was so excited to make it to the top.
The final route was a V3 set on an overhang with a dynamic jump between holds. I launched myself toward the target and felt my fingers touch the top of the hold, but I just couldn't stick it. My next few attempts met the same result. With 10 seconds left, I gave it one final, desperate try, but gravity won again.
Here’s a Youtube video of me climbing the second route.
No Podium, But a Total Win
I didn't make it to the podium, but I had an absolute blast and I finished in 4th place. The pure excitement, the enthusiasm of the fellow competitors, and the chance to try tough routes under pressure made it an incredible experience. For me, it was a total win.
At 51 years old, I completed my very first climbing competition, and I am proud of the result. I showed up, I had fun, and I look forward to doing another one in the future. Plus, I learned exactly what areas I need to target in my training.
Have you ever tried a climbing competition before? If so, how did it go?
*Photos provided by Gage Hornsby