Beat the Pump: Build Endurance and Stay on the Wall
Whether you're a boulderer or a rope climber, you've probably felt the dreaded pump—the moment when your forearms are on fire, your grip starts failing, and your hands just want to peel open. Even worse, the moves feel totally doable, but stringing them together from the ground up? That’s a different story. You find yourself thinking, "If only I had better endurance..."
Good news—you can build endurance, and we’re here to help! In this guide, we’ll break down key exercises to keep you climbing stronger for longer. No matter your climbing goals, endurance likely plays a crucial role in reaching them. Before we jump into the exercises, let’s take a quick look at the science behind endurance and how your body fuels your climbing sessions.
The Science of Climbing Endurance
Your body relies on two main energy systems to keep you moving:
- Aerobic System – This is your long-haul energy pathway, generating ATP (your body’s energy source at the energy level) slowly but efficiently. This system is especially important in building stamina, or the ability to sustain a low to moderate level.
- Anaerobic System – This system creates ATP much more quickly, delivering quick bursts of energy. This system helps power you through high intensity efforts—but it runs out fast.
For the best endurance and efficiency on the wall, you need both systems to work together. In this blog, we’ll focus on exercises that build your aerobic system, helping you stay on the wall longer without burning out too quickly. The best part? These exercises are adaptable—whether you’re training on a home wall, spray wall, training board, boulders, or ropes, you can tweak them to fit your setup.
Endurance-Boosting Exercises
- Short Interval Training - In this type of training, you’ll be climbing for multiple sets of short efforts to build up a light pump while still staying below your limit and keeping fatigue in check. Choose climbs or moves that are moderately difficult.
- Climb for 1 minute. Rest for 1 minute.
- Repeat 8-10 times.
- Long Interval Training - Here, you’ll be climbing for longer durations with full recovery between sets. Choose routes that are even easier than your short-interval climbs—think good holds where you can shake out.
- Climb for 5 minutes. Rest for 3 minutes.
- Repeat 3 times.
- ARC (Aerobic, Respiration, Capillarity) Training - This type of training pairs the lowest intensity with the longest duration of exertion. The climbing should be well within your limit so that you can still find rests and climb with good technique. If you start feeling too pumped, back off to some easier climbing.
- Climb continuously for 15-30 minutes, then rest for the same amount of time. Start with a shorter duration if you’re new to ARC training.
- Repeat for at least one more round.
- As you improve, try adding 5 extra minutes to your climbing sessions.
- Pro tip: You shouldn’t feel completely wrecked after this! If you do, lower the intensity.
Try these exercises and see how they improve your endurance! Stick with it, and you’ll notice yourself climbing longer, feeling stronger, and shaking out with confidence on those pumpy routes and long boulders. Check back for more tips on improving efficiency and taking your climbing to the next level!