One question climbers love to ask is "when's the right time to hop on a campus board, and how do you start?"
Campus board workouts are a great way to improve climbing power and upper body strength. When to start very much depends on the climber, but in general, we recommend waiting until you've been climbing consistently for at least one year (meaning, you're consistently climbing twice a week for 1-2 hours).
As far as how to start, one of our staff members has provided a beginner campus board workout that would be a great one to incorporate in your climbing routine. Keep in mind that while it may be considered a "beginner" workout, it is not easy! Please make sure that any training board workout sessions are done after warming up thoroughly, but before any climbing or other heavy physical workout.
Basic Ladders
Start with both hands on the bottom rung of the campus board in anopen-handed crimp position. Tighten your core (this will prevent your legs from swinging!) and reach for the next rung with your left hand. Bring your right hand up to the next rung. Repeat until you get to the top.
If there are foot holds to use, we recommend using them if you're new to using a campus board.
Repeat 3-5 times.
Double Clutches
Grab onto the bottom rung of the campus board. Pull yourself up (your elbows will be at a 90 degree angle and shoulders are engaged) and then, with some momentum, pop up, and grab the next rung with both hands.
Repeat 3 times.
Dynamic Pulls
This is a great exercise to help you with larger dynamic movements. Grab the low rung with both hands. Pull yourself up (your feet should either be hanging or using one of the foot bars located below the campus board) as far as you can and then reach as high as you can in one big move with your left hand. Come down and do the same exercise, this time with your right hand.
Repeat 3 sets on each hand.
Ladder Bumps
Grab the low rung with both hands. Pull yourself in and bump your left hand up one or two rungs above you. Then, bump your left hand one rung down. Then, bump it back up a rung. Repeat with your left hand until failure. Repeat with your right hand.
Dead Hangs
Grab one of the lower rungs with both hands. Make sure your arms are straight, your shoulders are engaged, and that your fingers are at a 90 degree angle on the rung you are hanging from.
Hang for 10 seconds, then rest a minute. Repeat 3-5 times.
Bumps
This bump exercise is really effective for contact and lock-off strength. Start with both hands on the bottom rung of the campus board in an open handed crimp position. Tighten your core and reach for the next rung with your left hand. Then bump your left hand up to the next rung. Keep doing this until you reach as far as you can get. Repeat on the other side.
Do 3-5 reps with a 1-2 minute rest in between sets.
If you want more information on any of the equipment in the training areas at any of our gyms, head to your local Movement website. From the menu, click on the calendar to locate any upcoming Intro to Training classes or our free Board and Training Area Introduction Clinic.
You can also work with one of our private climbing coaches to develop a personalized training plan or more specific suggestions on how to add training board workouts to your routine.