New to hangboarding? Here's a quick workout

Hangboards are great for building hand and finger strength. A good hangboard workout will give you the opportunity to practice on a variety of holds, which will improve your lock off strength, and engage shoulder stabilizer muscles that probably don't get much action during your regular climbing sessions.

Ideally, these two exercises we provide below are something you do once or twice a week to supplement your climbing session.

Keep in mind that while it may be considered a "beginner" workout, it is not easy! We do not recommend using this equipment unless you have at least one year of climbing under your belt (meaning, you're consistently climbing twice a week for 1-2 hours). Please make sure that any training board workout sessions are done after warming up thoroughly, but before any climbing or other heavy physical workout.

Typewriter Pullups

Grab the top of the hangboard and pull yourself up to the top left of it--make sure to engage your lats. Hold for a second or two and then shift to the top right of the hangboard. Do this 5 times before switching. Pull yourself up to the top right of the hangboard, hold for a second or two and then shift to the top left of the hangboard. Do 5 times.

Do 3-5 sets.

Hanging on the Hangboard

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Grab the top of the hangboard with straight arms (for a harder variation, pull yourself up to a locked off position)--make sure to engage your shoulders. Identify 3 or 4 holds on the hangboard, shift your hands, and move between them.

Aim for 10-15 seconds. Rest for a minute in between and repeat 3-5 times.

Curious about the rest of the training boards in your climbing gym and how they can help you climb better? Check out this article.

If you want more information on any of the equipment in the training areas at any of our gyms, head to your gym's website. From the menu, click on the calendar to locate any upcoming Intro to Training classes or our free Board and Training Area Introduction Clinic.

You can also work with one of our private climbing coaches to develop a personalized training plan or more specific suggestions on how to add training board workouts to your routine.