More Than Plastic on Plywood: A Setter's Perspective

You might think route setting is just drilling plastic holds onto walls all day. And sure, that's technically part of it - but saying that's all there is to setting is like saying painting is just putting colors on canvas or cooking is just throwing ingredients in a pan.

Setting is both an art and a science. Every time we step up to a blank wall, we're creating unique puzzles that need to work for everyone from first-time climbers to seasoned crushers. We're choreographing movements, telling stories through sequences, and hopefully creating experiences that make people fall in love with climbing.

Setting has evolved dramatically with the growth of indoor climbing. These days, you'll find everything from traditional movements that mirror outdoor climbing to modern, competition-style sequences that look more like gymnastics or parkour.

The truly special part about setting is the collaborative element. At Movement, we've built a program where feedback and teamwork aren't just encouraged - they're essential. Every route gets tested, tweaked, and refined based on team input. We're constantly learning from each other, sharing beta, and problem-solving together. Sometimes what feels obvious to the setter is totally baffling to everyone else - and that's where the magic of teamwork comes in.

We also have to consider the incredible diversity in our climbing community. That V4 you're projecting? It needs to work for someone who's 5'2" and someone who's 6'2". It needs to be engaging for both static climbers and dynamic movers. It needs to feel both challenging and achievable. Creating climbs that work for such a wide range of body types and climbing styles is one of the most challenging - and rewarding - aspects of setting.

Then there's the eternal debate of form versus function. Sometimes we're focused on creating something beautiful - a line of holds that flows like art across the wall. Other times, we're zeroing in on specific movement patterns or training particular techniques. Or you can go crazy and try to create a climb that perfectly balances the two.

The physical demands of setting are no joke. At Movement, the crew spends over an hour each day doing mobility and stretching to avoid creating or worsening injuries. We spend nearly half of our days fore-running climbs, which is SO much climbing if you think about it. Plus, we all climb for fun too, because we can't get enough. It's a labor of love, but we wouldn't have it any other way.

Our setting program is built on the belief that great routes come from supported, developed setters. We invest in our team's growth, encourage creativity, and foster an environment where setters can push their limits while staying true to their unique style. The result? A diverse array of climbs that reflects the passion and creativity of our entire setting team.

But what makes it all worth it is seeing the community engage with our work. Whether it's watching someone piece together their first V2 or seeing a group of friends working out beta together, these moments remind us why we do what we do. Setting isn't just about putting plastic on plywood - it's about creating experiences that bring people together, challenge them in new ways, and keep them coming back for more.

Be sure to check out the setting schedules at a Movement gym near you to stay up to date on all of the latest new climbs!