Climbing, like many sports, has its own metrics for measuring difficulty. While rope climbers use the Yosemite Decimal System (5.9, 5.10, etc.), the world of bouldering (at least in North America) has its own distinctive grading scale: the V-scale. Whether you're a seasoned climber or just starting out, understanding this system can help you track progress and select problems that match your ability level.
Origins of the V-Scale
The V-scale (sometimes called the Hueco scale) was developed in the 1990s by legendary American boulderer John "Vermin" Sherman in Hueco Tanks, Texas. Sherman sought to create a standardized system to measure boulder problem difficulty, and the "V" in V-scale stands for "Vermin," his climbing nickname.
Initially ranging from V0 (easiest) to V16 (hardest), the scale has expanded over time as elite climbers continue to push boundaries. Today, the hardest boulder problems in the world are graded around V17, with the most famous being "Burden of Dreams" in Finland.
How it Works
The beauty of the V-scale lies in its relative simplicity:
- V0-V2: Beginner problems
- V3-V6: Intermediate problems
- V7-V10: Advanced problems
- V11+: Expert level problems
Unlike some other systems, the V-scale doesn't incorporate subcategories or modifiers. There's no V5+, V5-, or V5a – it's simply V5. That said, some climbers casually use "-" and "+" to indicate a problem is on the easier or harder side of a grade. While the v-scale is the system primarily used in North America, the Fontainebleau (or Font, or French) Scale is used in most other parts of the world (see diagram). .png?width=266&height=532&name=V1%20(1).png)
Why Do We Use It?
Climbing scales provides several benefits to the climbing community:
- Universal Communication: It offers a common language for climbers worldwide to discuss problem difficulty
- Progression Tracking: Climbers can quantify their progress over time
- Session Planning: Helps climbers select problems that match their skill level during sessions
- Guidebook Navigation: Makes finding suitable problems in outdoor areas more straightforward
Despite its utility, it's essential to remember that grading is inherently subjective. A V4 that feels impossible to one climber might feel like a warm-up to another, depending on:
- Body type and dimensions
- Individual strengths and weaknesses
- Climbing style
- Experience with similar movement patterns
Even the same climber might find a V4 slab problem significantly harder than a V4 overhang if they excel at power moves but struggle with balance.
Numbers are just Numbers
While understanding the V-scale is valuable, remember that climbing's true essence extends beyond grades. The most rewarding aspects often come from personal improvement, community connection, and the joy of movement.
So next time you're looking at a problem with a V-grade attached, take it as a helpful guideline – but don't let it define your climbing experience. After all, the most important question isn't "What grade did you climb?" but rather "Did you have fun climbing it?"
Whether you're working on your first V0 or projecting double-digit problems, the journey itself is what makes climbing special – and that's something no grading system can measure.