As climbers, gear is a vital part of the sport we love. It comes to the gym, iconic crags, climbing trips, and some pieces have been with us potentially for years. Despite all the great memories, identifying when it’s time to replace gear is an important safety measure that should not be overlooked. Some signs may be obvious when gear is at the end of its life, others may be more subtle.
Here’s a few tips on when to retire ropes, harnesses, carabiners, and more:
When to Retire a Climbing Rope:
Average Lifespan: 1-3 years (when in regular use a few times a month)
Visible Red Flags: Check for lots of fuzziness, abrasion, any visible signs of the rope’s core, or the strength of the rope’s core. Be mindful that the middle of the rope will accrue the most use, so inspect it closely.
Big Falls: After a major fall—especially if it was a significant lead fall, or if you’ve taken repeated big impacts—check the rope thoroughly. Even if you can’t spot damage, the internal fibers may have been compromised.
Sources:
When to Retire a Climbing Harness:
Average Lifespan: 3–10 years (depending on use)
Visible Red Flags: Be aware of damaged or frayed webbing, parts that are becoming unstitched, and buckles that are broken or loose. Worn-out belay loops and tie in points should especially be noted.
Sources:
When to Retire Carabiners:
Visible Red Flags: Any bends, dings, or signs of deformation are an immediate sign the carabiner has been compromised. Rust on the body should also be noted, as it can cause the device to be weakened over time and eventually fail under load.
Gate or Locking Failure: If the locking mechanism gets stuck or doesn’t function properly, it’s time to replace the carabiner. A malfunctioning gate could lead to a dangerous situation during a climb. Carabiners can be trickier to spot wear and tear, and if you're suspicious, it's always better to replace the gear.
Sources:
International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
Better to Be Safe Than Sorry
When in doubt, always prioritize safety and replace gear that shows signs of wear or damage. By doing so, you’ll continue climbing safely and confidently, keeping your focus on the rock, not on the reliability of your equipment. Many items come with a manufacturer's recommendation, and any retail specialist at any Movement Gym near you would be more than happy to help you with any gear questions.
Shameless plug: If you're looking to replace your gear soon, check out Movement's Gear Shop for the best deal-or you can snag a gift card for someone at their gym!